As I have been organizing my things to depart for America (dust cloud allowing :)) I have started to think of things to share with you all; although "you all" could very well just be my mom. :)
For starters, I'm not sure how much any of you know about HIV/AIDS. I've not mentioned it much because I assume that no one else is too interested in the technicalities of the disease and plus, it isn't particularly uplifting. But I'm going to share a few tidbits, let's call it a brief overview in a glossary-esque form:
- ABC: This acronym, Abstain, Be faithful, Condoms, has been hugely successful in Uganda reducing it's HIV rate to under 10%. The US has been a very strong international supporter of the concept, which I almost fully agree with.
-ARV: Antriretroviral drugs - the combination of drugs used to treat those with HIV. Cost can be prohibitive to acquiring these drugs but it seems that more often it is merely getting to the doctor or clinic that is the problem. For example, many women can't leave the house without their husband's permission and only have the money that he gives her for food. So, if the man doesn't permit it, the woman will sporadically go without the treatment and build up immunity to the drugs. Reasonable, huh?
CD4 Cell: The white blood cell that protects the body from infections. HIV invades by attaching to the CD4 receptor; during the virus' incubation, a person will have up to 5% of their CD4 cells destroyed everyday. A healthy person is said to have about 1,200 CD4 cells per micro liter of blood. A person with full blown AIDS has a CD4 count under 200.
Nevirapine: A type of ARV that, when delivered in a single dose to an HIV+ woman in labor and then her newborn baby, drastically reduces the odds that the child is born with the virus.
PEPFAR: US President Emergency Fund for AIDS Relief. This was started by our most recent President Bush and is a multi-billion dollar plan that has provided ARV's and HIV counseling for many. Before you go thinking he did something too great, know that it is WIDELY criticized (and even Ugandans shine a semi-negative light on America for it) because of it's strict adherence to abstinence only teaching. In fact, I believe Obama cut funding for it shortly before I left.
That's enough. The disease is indescribably pervasive, though. It robs a society of it's productive generation, leaving only the very young and the very old to fend for one another. It seems that somehow the world has placed less importance on the value of an African life; that somehow being in these beyond desperate situations is less scary for people living in Kampala than it would be for a person living in Boston. It is a hard topic to discuss; it forces us to confront drugs, sex, inequality and realize our own stance and bias on issues like race and gender. It has, consequently, emerged as an "African problem". But really, the only difference between us and them is that they had the misfortune to be born in a country where access to education and medicine aren't easy and where politics and the economy weigh the citizens down. Lives slip away, everyday, by the thousands and are fairly unremarked. So, that's why I bring it up now, yeah it is a huge downer but it is the reality of millions. Seeing it has forever humbled me.
- Vincent, GOSSACE's founder, came to talk to me yesterday about my departure. I had many questions for him about what I can do in America, coming back, etc. He told me that he'd just had his own CD4 count tested and, under all the stress that the orphanage has been putting on him, his own level has dropped from 900 to 200. The place is his life and the kids didn't get to eat breakfast all week as there was no money for maize to be ground. I'd be stressed, too!
- I've been inviting a student to eat dinner with me each night. Their English is limited but we sure do smile at each other a lot over the table. They probably all think I'm a little crazy but I like to see them eat some decent food.
- I've going on many home visits. GOSSACE doesn't have room/resource to house more students but they do pay school fees for 40 students in difficult living situations. We went to see a seven year old boy who is deaf and recently lost use of his left arm after it was broken and not properly set. His mother, who is also raising a three year old and a six month old, lost her husband when she was pregnant with the baby. Her only form of income is selling roasted ears of corn in the evenings. Did I mention she's only 21?
It was the first home I'd visited with money in my pocket and I gave her the 5,000 ush in my pocket ($2.50) which is more than she'll make in a week. It was there that I fully confirmed that regardless of minor problems I might encounter, I need to stop complaining about any and everything.
- I also had the privilege of going to a maternal AIDS clinic. Women who laugh and hide their face when the doctor asks them about their period probably aren't old enough or mature enough for kids.
- I've given away as much as I possibly could to these students. I have them a bottle of lotion and tried to explain that it wasn't going to change their skin color. I also brought some shirts to give away. (You're absolutely right, they're Spartan based :)) I realized as I gave them away that these were most certainly the first time these kids had received clothes that were still with tags and brand new. One of their favorite things to receive are the empty bottles from my water so they can refill them and not have to drink from the well with their hands.
- The kids are made to attend prayers each night. There are four groups - Protestant; Catholic; Muslim and Born Again. (Born Again is HUGE here and, from what I've pieced together, they were "born again" from other Protestants. It isn't quite akin to the version of Born Again with which we're familiar!) The Muslim and Born Again rooms are my favorite. How often do you get to see Islam being practiced? And the Born Agains sing A LOT and then get really into chanting against the wall.
- And, just for the next time you're packing for East Africa, the biggest thing I forgot? Hand sanitizer! The absolute best thing I brought? A kindle; although I haven't been able to find wireless once.
- Taking pictures here is just about impossible. Oh, a really poignant moment you'd like to capture? As soon as you pull out your camera there are five other people throwing themselves in front of your poignant moment. I also have very few pictures that I'm in because Ugandan's simply can't seem to take pictures that include people's heads. :)
- Who can guess where, outside of Uganda, the biggest population of Ugandans can be found?? What's that? Boston? You're right!! I can't wait to go seek them out when I get back...who's coming with me??!! :)
Some pics, for kicks:
I think this is hilarious, I am not sure if it is a sample lawn set for sale, or what? Is anyone interested in me bringing it back for their house? I am willing to pay to check more bags.
This manequin, whom I call Gary, is out in front of the internet cafe I use. He belongs to some clothing store and is always in some different hip duds. He's petrifying, isn't he?
Here's a little guy at GOSSACE testing out some lotion application.
Construction in Kampala. Sturdy looking, huh!!!??
These birds are everywhere and they are gigantic. And ugly. They are like flying rats and when they die, they're so toxic that other animals won't even eat them. Ughk!
Last night my friends and I went to an Ethiopian restaurant in Kampala and sure enough, I ate grasshoppers. Actually, this is me reacting to eating the insect.
There's the little guy as he heads into my mouth. No, but seriously, it wasn't that bad. And, I know, I don't eat meat...is insect, meat? Who knows, but the credo I've adopted is, in the words of my boy Jay-Z....life is for livin, not livin uptight. So let's all eat more insects.Beautiful day to you!
FS
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